路易威登经典图案的小历史 A Brief History of Louis Vuitton’s Famous Monogram
路易威登宣布任命Virgil Abloh为其男装部艺术总监。 因此，Abloh将成为重新诠释威登具有122年历史徽标图案的最新设计师。Louis Vuitton announced the appointment of Virgil Abloh as its menswear artistic director. As such, Abloh will become the latest designer to reinterpret Vuitton’s 122-year-old logo.在Alboh之前，已有NicolasGhesquière的秀场大作（而在此之前为Marc Jac
路易威登宣布任命Virgil Abloh为其男装部艺术总监。 因此，Abloh将成为重新诠释威登具有122年历史徽标图案的最新设计师机关统一工作服的好处。
Louis Vuitton announced the appointment of Virgil Abloh as its menswear artistic director. As such, Abloh will become the latest designer to reinterpret Vuitton’s 122-year-old logo.
在Alboh之前，已有NicolasGhesquière的秀场大作（而在此之前为Marc Jacobs），村上隆于2003年与路易威登合作推出流行风格作品，还有Catherine Deneuve的旅行箱，而Dapper Dan则在他位于哈莱姆东125大街的精品店中，展现了自己的作品。 固然，你是怎样知道这个图案的其实不重要 - 总之你能认出这是路易威登的品牌。 带有花卉图案的连锁L和V设计是路易威登先生的儿子乔治€€威登于1896年设计的，用来推行新款箱子和行李箱，而在120年后，它成为世界上最知名的商标图案之1。
Before Alboh there wereNicolas Ghesquière’s’s runway reworks, (Marc Jacobs’s before him), Takashi Murakami’s Pop-minded collaboration of 2003,Catherine Deneuve’s traveling trunks, and Dapper Dan’s knock-ups made in his boutique on East 125th Street in Harlem. But of course, how you know the monogram isn’t what matters€€it’s that you know it. The interlockingLandVwith floral pattern was designed by Louis Vuitton’s son, Georges Vuitton, i促销员工作服n 1896 as a way to brand his nascent box and luggage business, and in the 120 years since, it’s become one of the most recognizable marks in the world.
在时尚舞台上，LV字母组合正在复苏。 由于Ghesquière于2013年被任命为艺术总监，此设计师以新颖的方式将其融入到他的系列中。可参考2015年春季靴子的花形高跟鞋。 此举是为了庆祝该品牌的标志性图案的悠久历史，其logo被设计为15个小型的标签现于鞋子上。
Within the fashion arena, the LV monogram is having something of a resurgence. SinceGhesquière was named artistic director in 2013, the designer has made a point of incorporating it into his collections in new and novel ways€€see: the floral-shaped heels of hisSpring 2015 boots. Celebrate the history of the iconic house with this look back at its logo in 15 bite-size notes.
在Abloh之前额设计师Kim Jones也使用了此图案，在2017年与Supreme合作中使用，并在2018年秋季男装秀期间作为来自此品牌的标志。
Abloh's predecessor Kim Jones has had his way with the logo, too, using it in a Supreme collaboration in 2017 and as his sign-off from the maison during his final Fall 2018 menswear show.
那末，我们1起来回顾1下路易威登的LV这个图案的小历史吧。并让我们期待Virgil会在今年6月用这个标志图案设计出的作品吧。
Here, a look back at the storied history of Louis Vuitton’s LVs. Let’s see where Virgil takes them this June.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
1854年，路易威登在巴黎的Neuve des Capucines第4大街开办了他的行李箱业务。 随着铁路和汽车旅行成为生活的1部份，路易威登的业务量开始增长。 由Paul Poiret，Dora Maar和Francis Picabia等当时名流的携带，LV行李箱不但成了身份的意味，而且是实用的产品：箱子从最开始到今天都是防水设计的，以避免意外破坏内部物品。 而它们在1896年首次出现就有了LV字母组合图案。
It was 1854 when Louis Vuitton established his luggage business in Paris at 4 Rue Neuve des Capucines. As rail and then automobile travel became an established part of life, Vuitton’s business began to grow. Carried by the likes of Paul Poiret, Dora Maar, and Francis Picabia, LV luggage was not only a status symbol but also a practical purchase: Its trunks were€€and still are€€waterproof to prevent accidental damage to the items inside. They first appeared in the LV monogram pattern in 1896.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
在上世纪50和60年代的喷气机时期，携领路易威登的行李箱在旅途中是当时西方时尚女演员的常态。 Anna Magnani在1960年前往巴黎旅行时带了全部车队，而她的时尚单品常常出现在《Vogue》杂志的旅行版面。
In the jet-set era of the ’50s and ’60s, Louis Vuitton trunks were the norm for chic actresses on the go. Anna Magnani took a whole fleet on a trip to Paris in 1960, while single pieces often populated the travel pages ofVogue.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
随着60年代和70年代平常装成为女装种别的增长来源，而路易威登的手袋也随之增加了销量。从1种快速流行风格再到水桶包，在这里的产品就像是看到1个72集的美剧《家有仙妻》（Bewitched），LV钱包成为现代女性中的1个使人垂涎的必买品。
As daywear became a growing category for women in the ’60s and ’70s, so did handbags for Louis Vuitton. Fromthe Speedy style now popular againto the bucket, seen here on a ’72 episode of Bewitched, an LV purse became a coveted item among modern women.
Dapper Dan在90年代的哈莱姆因其仿冒生意大赚了1笔。 他在East 125街的楼下商店常常被 Run-D.M.C.，LL Cool J和他的劲敌们参观，但是他们还是都会穿上他的冒牌货，不管怎样，LV的标志也就这样被引入1个新的购物人群。
Dapper Dan made a killing with his knockoff business in the ’90s in Harlem. His downstairs store on East 125th Street was often visited by Run-D.M.C., LL Cool J, and Public Enemy, who all wore his wares on-stage, introducing the LV monogram to a new demographic of shoppers.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
1997年，马克雅各布（Marc Jacobs)，当时的纽约设计师，几年前从Perry Ellis被解雇 ，但被任命为路易威登的创意总监。雅各布的任命给这个图案注入了新的活力，使得这个品牌本来慎重的设计和新的创意Vernis系列奇妙组合，在雅各布的模特朋友中间很受欢迎，例如Naomi Campbell和Kate Moss。
In 1997, Marc Jacobs€€then an on-the-rise New York designer who had been fired fromPerry Ellisseveral years earlier€€was named creative director at Louis Vuitton. Jacobs’s appointment gave new life to the monogram, making the house’s staid hatboxes and new Monogram Vernis collection popular among仿古奶茶店工作服图片 Jacobs’s model friends likeNaomi Campbella白云机场工作服图ndKate Moss.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
2003年，雅各布推出了与日本艺术家村上隆的另外一场合作。 村上隆用白色标志和字符重塑了白色的字母组合，并用他的第1个系列中的樱花设计做为粉色色调。 在2004年和2005年，他添加了1个樱桃的印花和牛仔布。 在2004年，当这款设计出现在美剧《贱女孩》中演员Reigina George的手上时，立刻成为作为10几至210来岁的女孩儿们必备的包包。
In 2003, Jacobs introduced another monogram collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami.Murakami remade the monogram in white with multicolored logos and characters and in pink with cherry blossom designs for his first series. In 2004 and 2005 he added an actual cherry print and denim. It was immortalized as the must-have bag for teens and 20-somethings when it appeared on the arm of the poisonously popular Regina George in Tina Fey’s hitMean Girlsin 2004.
雅各布总喜欢跨出边界，在他的屡次建议后，他说服公司允许使用Stephen Sprouse制作的涂鸦版标识。 “Louis Vuitton”和“LV”被涂在了该品牌传统的棕色印花上。这是路易威登经典图案的首次更新，使得这些手袋有了流行文化的感觉。 至于雅各布终究的路易威登系列，他将Sprouse的设计涂满了模特Edie Campbell的全身。
Jacobs loves to push boundaries, and after much convincing, he convinced the company to allow Stephen Sprouse to create a graffiti version of Vuitton’s monogram. “Louis Vuitton” and “LV” were painted over the house’s traditional brown-on-brown print€€the first time its monogram had ever been updated€€and the bags became pop culture sensations. ForJacobs’s final collection for Vuitton, he resurrected the Sprouse design as body paint on model Edie Campbell.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
雅各布在路易威登的任职期间，他继续给这两个字母的图案进行创新。 2007年春季，我们看到了1个全牛仔，科学怪人般风格的编织袋子，他将其他原本的LV款式缝合在1起，拼接成1个新的设计。而2010年春季，ombré染色邮差包和2010年秋季亮片装潢也我们眼前为之1亮。
Throughout the rest of Jacobs’s tenure at Louis Vuitton, he continued to rework and update the house’s monogram bags.Spring 2007saw an all-denim, Frankenstein-ed bag made from stitching together other pre-existing LV styles;Spring 2010, ombré-dyed messenger bags; andFall 2010, sequin embellishments.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
随着该图案的愈来愈流行，其涉足的产品范围也愈来愈大。 在秀场上，雅各布将它用于帽子、紧身衣、雨伞、扇子和毛皮罩，而且这些产品都可以通过零售渠道买到。
As the monogram grew in popularity, so did the range of monogrammed products. On the runway, Jacobs used it for hats, tights, umbrellas, fans, and fur muffs, select versions of which were available at retail.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
艺术家理查德€€普林斯（Richard Prince）与该品牌在2008年春季展开合作，创造出以他的艺术作品绘制的珠宝袋。 那个季节的表演由1系列打扮成护士的“护士绘画”系列超模组成。 这个想法也在街头流行起来，Ulyana Sergeenko就在巴黎穿着了全套LV护士组合。
Artist Richard Prince collaborated with the brand forSpring 2008, creating jewel-toned bags painted with his irreverent artworks. That season’s show was opened by a series of supermodels dressed as nurses from his “Nurse Paintings” series. The idea caught on on the streets too, where Ulyana Sergeenko wore a full LV nurse ensemble in Paris.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
该图案也得到了艺术家的各种创新，其中包括在2001年制作署名LV duffel的青铜雕塑的Sylvie Fleury。在与品牌合作以后，Murakami也将该图案融入了他的流行作品中。
The monogram has also inspired its fare share of artists, including Sylvie Fleury, who crafted a bronze sculpture of the signature LV duffel in 2001. Murakami has also incorporated the monogram into his Pop works following his collaboration with the brand.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
NicolasGhesquière的首款路易威登系列以其可穿着的轮廓和上世纪70年代的模糊化理念重振了巴黎时装周。 该系列产品的亮点是威登的新款Petite Malle包，以其标志性的箱子为设计来源。 而在2015年春季秀场以外，这款包已成为从纽约到巴黎的时尚潮人选择。
Nicolas Ghesquière’s first Louis Vuitton collection revitalizedParis Fashion Weekwith its wea工作服是否可以税前列支rable silhouettes and vaguely ’70s spirit. Key to the collection’s impact was Vuitton’s new Petite Malle bag, styled after its iconic trunks. Outside the Spring 2015 shows, it was the bag of choice from New York to Paris.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
Ghesquière对其字母组合进行的其他实验包括从手袋（2014年秋季）扭曲成波浪形图案，到雕刻了4瓣花形靴子的高跟鞋（2015年春季）。 在2016度假系列中，它出现在成衣秀场，并成为皮衣上的花卉图案。
Ghesquière’s other experiments with the monogram have ranged from twisting it into an undulating pattern on handbags (Fall 2014) to carving boot heels in the design’s four-petaled flower shape (Spring 2015). ForResort 2016, it appeared on ready-to-wear, when leather dresses were perforated with the floral pattern.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
在路易威登创建160周年之际，该品牌拜托6位设计师和艺术家使用这个经典图案及色彩来设计包包。 Karl Lagerfeld、Frank Gehry、Cindy Sherman、Marc Newson、Christian Louboutin和Rei Kawakubo都参与到了其中，他们每一个人都创作了1款带有他们个人特点的手袋，像Kawakubo特点巨豆，而Gehry则做了1个扭曲的盒子。 最有趣的是Lagerfeld的设计：1个用该图案字母组合的拳击手套和沙袋。 或许是他想借此表明LV（路易威登）和Chanel（香奈儿）之间几10年的竞争关系吧？
For the 160th anniversary of Louis Vuitton’s founding, the house commissioned six designers and artists to design bags in its classic monogram colors.Karl Lagerfeld, Frank Gehry, Cindy Sherman, Marc Newson,Christian Louboutin, andRei Kawakuboparticipat特殊岗位工作服ed, each creating a version of the purse with some of their signature flair€€Kawakubo’s featured giant bean-shaped holes, while Gehry’s was a twisted box. The most fun was Lagerfeld’s contribution: a punching bag with matching monogrammed boxing gloves. A statement on the decades-old accessories race between LV andChanel, perhaps?
在Loewe的Jonathan Anderson和Moschino的Jeremy Scott帮助下，Ghesquière让路易威登的品牌商品成为当下的模样。
WithJonathan AndersonatLoeweandJeremy ScottatMoschino, Ghesquière has helped make branded wares the look of the moment.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
在路易威登2017年秋季男装秀场上，Kim Jones首次与Supreme展开合作，是的这1超级品牌看上去让人觉得变得疯狂。 重新印制的字母组合包括了与Supreme的斜体logo，1起构成了1种相互环扣的设计。
At Vuitton's Fall 2017 menswear show, Kim Jones debuted a collaboration with Supreme that saw the hypebeasts go crazy. The reworked monogram featured the interlocked LV letters alongside Supreme's italic logo.
在Jones的谢幕之作时，他请出了名模Naomi Campbell和Kate Moss，并将她们俩从头到脚都裹上了LVde经典图案。
For Jones's swan song, he outfitted his pals Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss in head-to-toe LV monogram looks.
图片来源/PHOTO: VOGUE
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